April-May 2002.
Our men from Yekaterinburg:
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A. Bolotov:
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S. Borisov:
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Y. Ermachek:
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Alexei, sole climber, has made an ascention without
oxygen.
- All was normal - we successfully have got in "a
weather window". In total there were three days,
about which, by the way, all knew, and we have slipped
only.
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I personally summited thanking A.Bolotov. With Alexei
always all turns out!
The standard dream of the climber - Everest was executed!
We did not expect, that all six men summited, but
for Russian - you see this usual rule.
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To me have seemed by a very heavy condition of an
ascention: a very strong wind, literally we were lowered
somehow.
From surprises was, how the foreigners prepared for
an ascention: all of them sat in ABC and weathers
waited, did not go downwards, even upward. And, accordingly,
anybody from them has not risen on Everest!
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NEWS:
May 18.
Bolotov and Borisov summited on top (May,16). Other participants
summited on top (May,18). Details later...
May 11. Gavin and Willie have decided to join forces
with Alexsei from Russia, who they have become firm friends
with over the last month. He too will try for the summit without
oxygen. Alexsei has been on the North Ridge route before so
his experience will be invaluable.
(Gavin
for EverestNews.com)
May 4. The C3 (7800) has been set (the third attempt
was successful, two previous were failed because of strong
storm winds. All team descended to ABC 7 May for the rest
(about 5 days). All are healthy. Dmitry Pavlenko, the member
of the Macalu-1997 expedition, has suddenly arrived to BC.Perhaps
he'll join the team and will take part in the ascension.
May 1. The Russian-Bulgarian expedition has passed
from base camp under Everest, that weather now has deteriorated,
that the most strong group - Russian team, is possible on
May 10 they will rise on top.
 April
18. A. Bolotov has transferred
from slopes of Everest, that April 19 everyone plan to be
lowered in camp BC for rest. Oxygen at last have received,
the acclimatization drives well.
April 10 - base camp (BC).
April 13 - the team and basic cargo - in camp ABC.
April 14-15 - all in camp ABC (6400 м), preparation of camp.
April 16 - Bolotov and Borisov have advanced upward and
have established 1 camp.
April 17 - Bolotov and Borisov were lowered behind a cargo
up to camp ABC .
April 18 - The team has going in 1 camp. The team still
has processed about 400 meters of a route above than camp
1.
April 17. The expedition the last week has come in base
camp BC from northern party of Everest (5200 м).
April 12. The problem remains one - with the detention
of oxygen cylinders for expedition. Our guys are helped by
two high-altitude sherpas: Geljen Sherpa and Ang Kami Bhote.
(
www.everestnews.com)
On the part of Tibet on Everest already were going about
15 expeditions, including Italian, known for the Russians,
Simone Moro, and from the southern party - 12, including
two female commands, American and Nepal (under the message
everestnews.com).
Once more RISK.ru
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